A semicircle built for a king
The colonnade wraps around you like two open arms. Curving Doric columns sweep out from the Basilica of San Francesco di Paola, whose dome and portico copy Rome’s Pantheon. Across a wide, empty stretch of grey paving stands the long red-and-grey front of the Palazzo Reale.
Joachim Murat began the project. After the Bourbons returned in 1815, Ferdinand I finished it as a church, built between 1816 and 1846. The square takes its name from the plebiscite of October 1860, when Neapolitans voted to join the Kingdom of Italy.
Two bronze horsemen stand between the church and the palace. The figure of Charles III is by Antonio Canova. Ferdinand I was begun by Canova and finished by Antonio Calì. For years the piazza served as a car park, and it was cleared for the 1994 G7 summit. The open paving you walk on today dates from that clean-up.
What to look at, in order
The palace façade works like a lesson in Naples’ rulers. Eight niches hold statues of the city’s kings, running from Roger the Norman to Vittorio Emanuele II.
- Palazzo Reale: royal apartments, the court theatre and a grand double staircase. Its hours change through the year, so check the official site before you go.
- San Francesco di Paola: look up at the coffered dome from inside.
- Palazzo della Prefettura and Palazzo Salerno: the two buildings closing the square’s short sides.
- Teatro di San Carlo: the opera house attached to the palace’s flank, a few steps away.
- Galleria Umberto I: the glass-roofed arcade across Via San Carlo.
Getting there and walking on
Take Metro Line 1 to Municipio or Toledo. From either one, the walk is 5–10 minutes on foot, mostly flat. From Toledo, head down Via Toledo past the Galleria. From Municipio, you pass Castel Nuovo (the Maschio Angioino) and then the San Carlo.
From here the city’s best walks start without effort:
- Head downhill on Via Cesario Console to reach the seafront and Castel dell’Ovo, with Vesuvius across the bay.
- Head west along Via Chiaia for the shops and Palazzo Cellammare.
- Head north up Via Toledo towards the Quartieri Spagnoli.
The blindfold test and the corner café
Neapolitans have a dare for visitors. Stand with your back to the palace gate, close your eyes or put on a blindfold, and try to walk straight between the two horsemen. Almost nobody manages it, and the slight slope of the paving gets the blame. Locals tell it as the curse of Queen Margherita.
Gran Caffè Gambrinus sits on the corner where the square meets Piazza Trieste e Trento. Order the Neapolitan way: pay at the cassa first, then hand your receipt over at the bar and drink standing. Sitting at a table costs noticeably more. Ask for a caffè and it comes short and strong, usually with a glass of water.
The square is one of the most visited places in the city. It draws school groups and families on Sunday strolls, and the big free concerts and New Year’s Eve events are held here. Visit early in the day if you want photos of the colonnade without crowds. Keep your phone and wallet zipped while you look up at the dome.
Frequently asked questions
What is the nearest metro station to Piazza del Plebiscito?
Municipio and Toledo, both on Metro Line 1, are each 5–10 minutes' walk away. From Toledo you walk down Via Toledo past Galleria Umberto I. From Municipio you pass Castel Nuovo and Teatro di San Carlo.
How long should I spend at Piazza del Plebiscito?
30–45 minutes covers the square, the colonnade and the inside of San Francesco di Paola. Add an hour or two if you visit the Palazzo Reale, whose hours change through the year and are posted on its official site.
Is Piazza del Plebiscito free to visit?
Yes. The square is a public, pedestrianised space open to everyone. The Royal Palace charges admission, and the current price is posted on its official site and at the ticket office.
What is the blindfold tradition between the statues?
You start with your back to the Royal Palace gate and try to walk blindfolded between the two equestrian statues, of Charles III and Ferdinand I. Most people drift off course, and locals blame the legendary curse of Queen Margherita.
What is near Piazza del Plebiscito?
Teatro di San Carlo, Galleria Umberto I, Gran Caffè Gambrinus and Castel Nuovo are all a few minutes away on foot. The seafront and Castel dell'Ovo are a short downhill walk along Via Cesario Console.
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