Bay of Islands Vintage Railway: Paihia Travel Guide (4.6★)

Kawakawa has railway tracks laid along its main road. Not beside it, not behind the shops: down the centre of Gillies Street, with parked cars, the post shop and the pie counters lined up on either side. The Bay of Islands Vintage Railway runs its heritage trains along that line. Most visitors staying in Paihia drive straight past on their way north and never see it.

This guide covers how to fit it into a Bay of Islands trip, what else sits within walking distance, and the timing quirks that catch people out.

A train down Gillies Street

The line is the whole point of this town. Kawakawa grew up around coal mining and the railway that carried coal to the coast, and the track was never moved off the main street. Today that oddity is what makes the ride worth the drive.

You board at 102 Gillies Street, in the middle of the shopping strip. The train then rolls slowly between the storefronts before leaving town for open country. Few heritage railways start their journey in the middle of a working high street. Watching from the footpath as it passes is a small event of its own, even if you don’t ride.

Why it stays a quieter find

The Bay of Islands pulls its crowds toward the water. Paihia’s wharf, the Russell ferry and the dolphin cruises fill most itineraries. Kawakawa sits inland on State Highway 1, so the railway gets mostly passing traffic and people who planned for it.

That works in your favour. It is consistently well rated by the people who do make the trip, and you are unlikely to be fighting a tour group for a window seat. Expect a relaxed, volunteer-heritage feel rather than a polished theme-park operation.

Getting from Paihia to Kawakawa

Kawakawa is roughly a 20-minute drive south-west of Paihia. Head inland on State Highway 11 until it meets State Highway 1 at Kawakawa. There is no useful public transport for a half-day trip like this, so a car or a tour pick-up is the realistic option.

Other ways to arrive:

• By bike: the Twin Coast Cycle Trail (Pou Herenga Tai) follows old rail corridor between Kawakawa and Opua. Riders can combine a stretch of trail with the train.
• From the south: drivers coming up State Highway 1 from Whangārei pass straight through Kawakawa, so it is an easy stop before you reach the coast.
• Parking: park on or near Gillies Street. Keep clear of the tracks, which are live when the train runs.

Reading the timetable before you go

The station’s opening hours and the train’s departure times are not the same thing. At the moment the site is listed as open 8am–5pm Monday to Thursday and 9:30am–3:30pm Friday to Sunday, so weekend days are shorter.

Heritage lines like this one usually change their running days with the season. Services also depend on volunteer crews and on which rolling stock is available. Departure times, ticket prices and any special event runs are posted on the railway’s official website. Check it on the day you plan to go, not the week before.

On a weekend, aim to arrive well before 3:30pm. The site closes earlier then, and a late start can leave you watching the last departure from the platform.

Boarding on Gillies Street

Turning up a little early is the most useful habit here. A small heritage operation works at its own pace. Getting to the platform before your departure gives you time to buy tickets and choose a seat without rushing.

A few things that help:

• Book or confirm ahead if you are travelling with a group or in school holidays, when family bookings bunch up.
• Card is generally accepted in New Zealand, and tipping is not expected. Do check payment options on the official site if you plan to pay on the day.
• Watch the street. Drivers and pedestrians share Gillies Street with the line. Stay behind any barriers and follow crew instructions when the train is moving through town.
• Talk to the crew. Volunteers at heritage railways usually enjoy questions about the line’s history, and that is often the best part of the ride.

The Hundertwasser block next door

Walk a short distance along Gillies Street and you reach the Hundertwasser Toilets. They are public toilets designed by Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, who lived near Kawakawa for decades. They have no straight lines anywhere: there are mosaic tiles, a grass roof, bottle-glass windows and uneven floors. People really do queue to photograph a public bathroom.

Next to them is Te Hononga, a newer civic building in the same Hundertwasser style, with a library and community space inside. Between the railway, the toilets and Te Hononga, the centre of Kawakawa is easy to cover on foot in an hour or two.

Building a half-day around Kawakawa

The train ride is short, so think of it as the anchor of a half-day rather than a full outing. Some easy pairings:

• Kawiti Glowworm Caves: just outside Kawakawa. Guided tours take you through limestone caves lit by glowworms.
• Twin Coast Cycle Trail: ride or walk part of the old rail corridor toward Opua and the coast.
• Opua and the car ferry to Russell: a short drive back toward the bay, if you want to finish the day across the water.
• Waitangi Treaty Grounds: just north of Paihia. Save these for a separate morning, as they deserve unhurried time.

For an easy loop, drive from Paihia to Kawakawa mid-morning, ride the train, walk to the Hundertwasser block and grab lunch on Gillies Street. Then see the glowworm caves on the way back. You will be back by the bay by late afternoon.