Barry Fish: Where to Eat in Edinburgh

A seafood room on Leith’s waterfront

Leith is where Edinburgh comes to eat. The old port sits at the mouth of the Water of Leith, where the river meets the Firth of Forth. Its stone warehouses and quays now hold a run of restaurants, with new ones opening every other month or so.

Barry Fish is one of the newer arrivals. It’s a smart seafood restaurant right on the shore, so it suits a proper dinner more than a quick bite on the way somewhere else. It’s in the right place for it: seafood has been landed and eaten along this stretch of water for centuries.

We aren’t printing a menu here because the restaurant hasn’t given us one to check. Look at the current dishes on its own channels before you go, since a new kitchen tends to change things often in its first months.

Getting to The Shore

Since the tram line was extended to Newhaven, Leith has been easy to reach from the city centre.

• Tram: take the Newhaven line from Princes Street or York Place and get off at The Shore. From there it’s a short walk down to the water.
• On foot: Leith Walk runs about two miles downhill from the east end of the city centre. It’s a straight, busy street lined with cafés and grocers.
• Riverside route: the Water of Leith Walkway follows the river all the way to the port. It’s a slower, greener way in if you have an afternoon.
• Taxi: a short ride from Waverley Station, and the easiest option late at night.

Booking, paying and tipping in Leith

Book ahead and confirm. A new, well-reviewed restaurant in Leith can fill its tables at weekends. Opening days also tend to shift while a place settles in, so check the current hours and make your booking directly with the restaurant.

How the bill usually works in a UK restaurant at this level:

• Card and contactless are standard. You rarely need cash.
• Service charge: many Edinburgh restaurants add a discretionary charge, often around 10 to 12.5 percent, to the bill. Check before you tip again on top of it.
• No service charge? Leaving roughly 10 percent for good service is the norm.
• Dress: smart-casual is safe. A waterproof layer is sensible because the wind comes straight off the Forth.

Tell the restaurant about any shellfish allergy when you book, not when you sit down. A seafood kitchen can plan around you much better with notice.

Before and after: making a night of Leith

Make an evening of it. The Shore is lined with pubs and wine bars in old stone buildings, so a drink by the river before dinner is easy to arrange.

• Royal Yacht Britannia: the former royal yacht is moored at Ocean Terminal, one tram stop further on. It’s best seen in daylight before an early dinner.
• The Kitchin: Tom Kitchin’s restaurant on Commercial Quay is close by, a sign of how seriously Leith takes its food.
• The waterfront walk: after dinner, walk along the river past the moored boats and the old Customs House.
• Leith Walk: on the tram back into town, its bars and late-night spots are an option if you’re not ready to stop.

Plan for about two hours at the table, plus time for the tram. If you’re staying in the city centre, an evening in Leith fits easily around a day in the Old Town.