Westland Tai Poutini National Park: Franz Josef Travel Guide

Ice above rainforest

The glaciers end in rainforest, close to sea level. Franz Josef Glacier (Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere) and Fox Glacier (Te Moeka o Tuawe) come down from the Southern Alps toward the Tasman Sea. On the way in you walk through rimu, kāmahi and tree ferns before the valleys open onto grey moraine.

The park dates from 1960. It forms part of Te Wāhipounamu, the South West New Zealand World Heritage Area. Both glaciers have retreated a long way, so viewpoints now sit well back from the ice. Hearing ice fall from that distance is normal.

The walks worth your boots

Each glacier has its own access road off State Highway 6. Fox Glacier township is roughly half an hour’s drive south of Franz Josef.

• Franz Josef Glacier Valley Walk: a riverbed route over gravel to a viewpoint below the terminal, about 1.5 hours return.
• Sentinel Rock: a short climb from the same car park, roughly 20 minutes return, looking straight up the valley.
• Peters Pool: a few minutes off the valley track. On a still day the glacier reflects in the pool.
• Robert’s Point Track: a full day out, with swing bridges and steep rock, finishing high above the Franz Josef ice.
• Lake Matheson: near Fox Glacier. A loop of about 1.5 hours goes to the jetty viewpoint, where calm water mirrors Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. Early morning usually has the least wind.

You can only stand on the ice itself on a guided heli-hike, booked through operators in either township.

Timing it against the crowds

Google currently lists the park’s hours as 8am–8pm Monday to Saturday and 8:30am–5pm on Sunday. Hours shift through the year, so check the Department of Conservation (DOC) site for this month’s times.

Weekends are calmest from 8am to 9am and from 4pm to 5pm. On Sunday that morning window starts at 8:30. Try not to turn up between 9am and 4pm on a Saturday or Sunday. That is when the valley car parks fill and tour coaches arrive. No weekday quiet hours are forecast, but going early is still a sensible default.

The West Coast is one of New Zealand’s wettest regions. Rain is the normal weather here, and cloud can hide the peaks within an hour. Clear mornings after heavy rain often give the best views.

Reading the valley like DOC does

The valley floors move. Floods, rockfall and ice collapse close tracks without warning. Stay behind every barrier, and don’t stop walking in the signed rockfall zones. Tracks get closed and reopened on short notice, so check DOC alerts the night before.

• Sandflies: they gather at Lake Matheson, the riverbeds and every car park. Put repellent on before you open the car door.
• Kea: these alpine parrots strip rubber from cars. Don’t feed them.
• Helicopter flights: book your first morning in town, so a cancelled flight can move to the next day.
• Paying: cards and contactless work across both townships. Tipping isn’t expected in New Zealand.

Most visitors drive straight between Franz Josef and Fox. If you have an extra hour, head north instead to Okarito, a lagoon village with kayaking and bird walks.