Taqueria Arandas: Where to Eat in Mexico City (4.2★)

Tacos on Avenida 5 de Mayo

5 de Mayo is a busy street of old stone facades. It runs from the Palacio de Bellas Artes east to the Zócalo, and Taqueria Arandas is at number 46, in the stretch nearer the square. Office workers, shoppers and tourists pass the door all day.

Google calls it a no-frills outpost of a long-running chain that specialises in taco-truck fare. That’s an accurate idea of what to expect: quick, casual tacos at budget-to-mid-range prices, without tablecloths. It’s one of the most-reviewed taco spots in the Centro and consistently well rated. Don’t expect a quiet discovery. Expect a busy counter.

Getting to number 46

The Metro gets you within a short walk:

• Allende (Line 2): the closest station, a couple of blocks north on Tacuba.
• Zócalo/Tenochtitlan (Line 2): walk west from the square along 5 de Mayo.
• Bellas Artes (Lines 2 and 8): walk east down 5 de Mayo past the Casa de los Azulejos and Torre Latinoamericana.

The street is flat and easy on foot. That makes it simple to fit a meal between the Templo Mayor, the Metropolitan Cathedral and Bellas Artes.

When the room empties out

The doors never close. Every day of the week is listed as open 24 hours, so you can come for breakfast, a late lunch or a 3am stop on your way back from Garibaldi.

Crowds are another matter. Measured foot traffic shows that 7am to 10am is the quietest window on weekdays and weekends alike. Avoid weekends from 12pm to 11pm. That’s the peak, when tables fill and the counter backs up. A weekday visit outside lunch hour is your best bet if you want to sit down.

Ordering tacos the Mexico City way

Taquerias in the capital have their own rhythm, and it helps to know it:

• Order by the piece. Ask for tacos in numbers (“tres de…”) and add more as you go. Most people order a second round rather than everything at once.
• “Con todo” means with onion and cilantro. Say “sin cebolla” to leave the onion off.
• Salsas and limes are usually set out for you to help yourself. Try a small amount of each salsa before you pour it on.
• “Para llevar” gets your order wrapped to take away. That’s handy if you’re heading to eat near the Alameda Central.
• Paying: ask for “la cuenta” at the end. Many places in Mexico City add up the bill from what you tell them you ate, so keep count. Bring pesos in small notes in case card isn’t accepted. Tipping around 10 percent is normal at sit-down places.

Prices are on the menu at the counter. The cheapest way to eat well is to order a few tacos at a time and keep going until you’re full.