Mtatsminda Park: Tbilisi Travel Guide (4.6★)

The city’s TV tower is the landmark here. Its red-and-white lattice stands over Tbilisi from almost every street in the old town, and the amusement park spreads out along the ridge just below it. Opened in the 1930s, Mtatsminda Park is part fairground and part viewing platform. The whole valley of the Mtkvari River lies below you.

It is one of the most-reviewed sights in the city and consistently well rated. Expect company: families, couples and visitors all come up the same hill for the same skyline.

Riding the funicular up

The lower station sits at the top of Daniel Chonkadze Street in Sololaki, a steep, leafy residential street. It is a short uphill walk or taxi ride from Liberty Square. The funicular line dates from 1905. Its cars climb at a sharp angle, and the old town slides away beneath the windows as you rise.

Sit or stand facing downhill if you can. The view opens up behind you, not ahead.

The Pantheon stop halfway

The funicular pauses at a middle station. This is the stop for the Mtatsminda Pantheon, which surrounds St David’s Church. Some of Georgia’s best-known writers and public figures are buried here, including Ilia Chavchavadze and the Russian diplomat-playwright Alexander Griboyedov.

It is a quiet, terraced cemetery, very different in mood from the rides above. You can hop off here, walk the graves, and then continue to the top. Dress and behave as you would at any church.

Up on the plateau

At the top, the funicular station building opens onto the summit plateau. It houses restaurants and a terrace facing the city. From there the park unrolls along the ridge:

• The Ferris wheel, set on the hill edge, the high point of the park in every sense
• Roller coasters and fairground rides, from gentle rides for small children to faster ones
• Cafés and snack stands dotted between the attractions
• Viewing terraces looking over Old Tbilisi, Narikala Fortress and the river

On a clear day the panorama stretches well beyond the city. It takes in the Old Town rooftops, the Bridge of Peace and the Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba) on the opposite bank.

Getting on rides without the shuffle

Rides here are paid for individually, not with one wristband at the gate. In practice you load credit onto a park card and tap it at each ride. The funicular itself has long accepted Tbilisi’s Metromoney transport card. Check the signs at the lower station for current payment options and prices, because they are posted there.

Card payment is common across Tbilisi, but keep a little cash in lari for small kiosks. Taxis up the hill are usually booked through Bolt. The park sits busiest when families come up after school and on weekends. Arriving soon after the 11:30am opening is the simplest way to reach the rides before the queues build.

Tipping in the sit-down restaurants follows the city norm. Many bills already include a service charge, so read yours before adding more.

When the view is best

Daylight shows you the layout of the city. Dusk and after dark show you why people come up. Tbilisi’s bridges, churches and the fortress walls are lit at night, and the hill is the best seat for it.

This week the park stays open until 11pm. Hours change with the season, though, so confirm the current closing time and the last funicular down before you plan a late visit. Bring a layer. The summit sits several hundred metres above the old town and is usually breezier.

Pairing it with the old town

Mtatsminda fits neatly into a day in central Tbilisi. Before or after, consider:

• Sololaki’s streets around the lower station, with their carved wooden balconies and painted entrance halls
• Rustaveli Avenue, a short walk away, for the Georgian National Museum and the Opera
• Narikala Fortress, reached by the cable car from Rike Park, for a second hilltop view facing back toward Mtatsminda

Allow 2–3 hours on the hill if you ride a few attractions and eat. Allow an hour or so if you simply want the funicular, the Pantheon and the view.