Laguna Esmeralda: Ushuaia Travel Guide (4.9★)

Where the colour comes from

The water really is green. Laguna Esmeralda sits in a bowl of bare grey peaks above the Tierra Mayor valley. Glacial meltwater carries fine ground rock, known as rock flour, into the basin. That suspended sediment scatters light and turns the lake a milky jade.

The colour changes with the sky. Under cloud it goes dull and pale. When the sun reaches into the cirque, it brightens to the shade that gives the lake its name. Above the far shore, the Ojo del Albino glacier feeds the basin from a higher shelf.

This is one of the most-reviewed outdoor sights around Ushuaia, and it is consistently rated near the top. It is not a quiet secret. Expect company on the trail, especially in high summer.

Getting out of town

The trailhead sits beside Ruta Nacional 3. It is the road that climbs northeast out of Ushuaia towards Paso Garibaldi. The drive takes around 20–30 minutes, and the trailhead is close to the husky and winter-sports centres along this stretch of valley.

You have three realistic options:

• Minibus shuttles leave from the centre of Ushuaia and drop hikers at the trailhead, then collect them later. Agencies on and around Avenida San Martín sell seats.
• Taxi or remís, which is useful for small groups. Agree a pickup time before the driver leaves.
• Rental car, with roadside parking at the trailhead. In summer it fills early.

There is no phone coverage you should count on at the lake. Fix your return arrangements before you set off.

The walk, bog by bog

The first stretch is forest. The trail climbs gently through lenga, the southern beech of Tierra del Fuego. The trunks are often draped in pale green beard lichen. Roots and loose earth make the footing uneven, but the gradient stays modest.

Then the trees open into the valley floor. This is turba, peat bog, and it decides what kind of day you have. In places there are boardwalks or log crossings. In others you pick a line between sodden hummocks and black pools. Mud reaching above the ankle is normal here.

Look out for the beaver dams. North American beavers were brought to Tierra del Fuego in the 1940s for a fur trade that never took off. With no natural predators, they spread. Their dams have flooded parts of this valley, leaving grey standing dead trees in the water.

The final section climbs a little over a moraine before the lake appears. Most people cover the roughly 4.5 km each way in 1.5–2.5 hours, depending on how bad the mud is.

Mud, wind and what to wear

Your boots matter more than anything else you bring. Wear waterproof hiking boots, not trainers. Gaiters help a great deal in the bog section. Trekking poles help you balance on the wet stretches.

Weather in the valley turns quickly, even in January. Pack layers that cope with wind and rain:

• A waterproof shell and a warm mid-layer
• Hat and gloves, since the wind at the lake comes straight off the ice
• Water and food (there is nothing to buy on the trail)
• A spare pair of socks for the ride back

Snowshoes in the dark season

In winter it becomes a different walk. From roughly June to September, snow covers the trail and the bog freezes. Many visitors go on snowshoes, often on a guided outing, and the lake itself may be partly or fully frozen.

Daylight is short in midwinter, so the timing tightens up. Google lists the site as open around the clock, but that only means it is an open natural area. Ushuaia’s light changes enormously through the year, from long summer evenings to brief winter days. Plan to finish well before dark. Check the forecast and current trail conditions with the tourist office or an agency before you go.

Sharing the trail at the lake

Beating the crowd here comes down to timing and courtesy. Many shuttles leave the city mid-morning, so a car or an early taxi usually gets you to the shore ahead of the main wave. Midsummer weekends draw the most people.

At the lake, you will see a few local habits:

• Mate gets passed round. Argentine hikers often share a gourd of mate on the shore. If you are offered it, drink the whole serving and hand it back. Saying “gracias” means you are done.
• Stay on the beaten line in the bog. Peat recovers very slowly. Widening the trail to dodge mud does lasting damage, so walk through it.
• Carry everything out. There are no bins. Orange peel and tissues stay in your bag.
• Keep off the ice and out of the water. The lake is glacier-fed and very cold.

Shuttle drivers and small agencies often prefer cash in pesos, so ask how to pay when you book. For any fees, check the agency’s posted rates.

Pushing on to the glacier

Strong hikers sometimes continue past the lake. A steeper, rougher route climbs towards the Ojo del Albino glacier above. It involves loose rock, route-finding and, near the ice, real hazard. Most people who do it go with a local guide.

If you turn back at the lake, the descent is quicker. You still have to cross the bog a second time, though. Give yourself time to scrape your boots at the trailhead before getting back into anyone’s vehicle.