Manzushir Monastery: Ulaanbaatar Travel Guide (4.6★)

Stone foundations under the larches

The monastery sits in a valley on the southern side of Bogd Khan Uul. The forest is larch and the ground is scattered with granite boulders. It was founded in the 1730s and dedicated to Manjushri, the bodhisattva of wisdom, which is where the name comes from. In 1937, during the Stalinist purges, it was destroyed and its monks were killed or scattered.

What you walk through now is mostly foundations. Low stone walls and terraces climb the slope, showing where dozens of temple halls once stood. One rebuilt temple serves as the small museum. Near it is the huge bronze cauldron, cast in the 18th century to cook meals for the monastery’s monks.

The paintings in the rock

The rocks above the ruins hold the real reward. Buddhist figures and Tibetan script are painted straight onto the boulders in strong reds, blues and golds. Some are faded and some still look sharp. You reach them on informal paths up the hillside, and the climb takes about 15–20 minutes at an easy pace.

Keep going above the paintings for a view down the valley toward Zuunmod and the open steppe of Töv Province. The whole massif is the Bogd Khan Uul Strictly Protected Area, one of the oldest protected landscapes in the world. Keep an eye out for marmots and birds of prey along the forest edge.

Reaching Zuunmod and the gate

Most people come on a day trip from Ulaanbaatar:

• By car or taxi: take the road south past the airport turn-off to Zuunmod, the capital of Töv Province. From there it’s a short drive uphill to the monastery gate.
• By public transport: buses and minibuses run from Ulaanbaatar to Zuunmod. A local taxi covers the last few kilometres.
• On foot: experienced hikers cross Bogd Khan Uul from the city side, starting near Zaisan. It takes a full day, so go with a guide or a GPS track, because the forest trails are poorly marked.

Admission is paid at the gate, and the current price is posted there. No hours are confirmed here, so check before you go, especially outside summer. Allow 2–3 hours. June to September gives you green forest and dry paths. Winter visits are possible, but cold and icy.

Walking the site the Mongolian way

Mongolian Buddhists walk around sacred things clockwise. That goes for the stone ovoo cairns you’ll pass near the paintings: circle one clockwise three times and add a stone if you like. Don’t climb on the painted boulders or touch them, since skin oils speed up the fading.

• Carry cash in tögrög for the gate and for any taxi from Zuunmod.
• Pack water and snacks. The site has few facilities, and the town is your nearest proper supply stop.
• Dress modestly inside the museum temple and take off your hat.
• Mountain weather changes quickly, even in July, so bring a warm layer.

The site is under-the-radar, and that makes it a quieter find than Gandan Monastery in the city. Hikers mostly have the upper paintings to themselves.